by David Timmins
There are only a half dozen true walled cities left in the world: Chester, in England; Avila, in Spain; Carcasonee, in France; Rothenburg am der Tauber, in Germany -- and Murten in Switzerland. While, in fact, there are other walled, or partly walled towns in Switzerland, Murten is perhaps the best preserved. And certainly among the most historic.
Everyone who lives in Geneva is familiar with the Escalade, celebrated each November in commemoration of the failed attempt of the troops of the Duke of Burgundy to climb the ramparts of Old Geneva. Fewer may be aware that less than a year later, in June, Duke Charles the Bold marching with his troops from the French border less than fifteen kilometers away, was back in a reprise of his attempt to seize Geneva, attacking the town of Murten on the east shore of Lake Neuchatel. Because of its strong walls, the inhabitants of Murten were able to hold off the Duke's troops for several days. The other cantons, alerted to the danger, were this time able to rally to Murten's defense, the Confederate army arriving in time to drive the Burgundians into the lake, where most were drowned in their heavy armor. The Duke himself escaped. There is a commemorative plaque informing visitors that this was perhaps the determinative battle in early Swiss history, assuring the survival of the Confederation.
Murten is today a charming mid-sized village with quaint arcaded streets reminiscent of the much larger Bern, some twenty miles to the east. The town has attrractive craft shops and food markets, a couple of neat four star hotels which give on the lake, and some lovely gardens. One can, if sufficiently energetic, walk around the wooden-roofed stone walls surrounding the town. The day we visited, the town was celebrating a folk festival and mens' choirs, in typical costume, were thronging the streets. A group of eight or ten entertained us, yodelling as they walked under the arcades down the main street. Do not fail to visist the French church on the west end and the German church to the esst end of town. As indicated by the churches, Murten is on the border of La Suisse Romande and Schweiz.
On the way to Murten, one passes the Chateau de Vaumarcus, a classic Swiss-style castle with turrents, moat, and drawbridge. The castle shutters are painted a wavy bright yellow and orange, and we speculated whether this highly distinctive decor was adopted as a visual guide to help medieval travelers locate the castle from the distance as evening drew on. There is an interesting museum and pleassant dining facility at the castle gate. From time to time the castle offers entertainment -- a medieval meal with troubadors, and minstrels. We did not luck out during our visit, the performance having been the previously night, nor could we determine the date of the next performance. Perhaps the Swiss Tourist Bureau could help interested visitors.
The Chateau, which was part of Charles the Bold's holdings within the borders of what is now Switzerland, was seized by the Confedrate army and burned, bringing to an end this enclave of Charles' power which threatened surrounding Swiss lands.
If time permits, you might find it worthwhile to continue on some twenty miles to the north to the town of Aarberg -- not as large or impressive as Murten, but with a picturesque village square and an impressive wooden bridge over the upper Aare river. Examine the bridge closely to see the work of the early bridge builders. The wooden-pegged struts and reinforcements give enormous respect for the cleverness of the designers. The bridge is, while simpler (and without paintings on the overhead panels), fully as impressive as the more noted bridge in Lucerne.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |