CITYSAI.NTS (Converted)
A REVIEW OF SIR RICHARD BURTON'S
CITY OF THE SAINTS
Republished by the University of Colorado Press: 1994
by D. B. Timmins,
PhD
Sir Richard Burton, the renowned British linguist/explorer visited Salt Lake City
just twelve years after the arrival of the first Mormon Pioneers in July 1847. Burton
came in July 1859.
His first contact with Mormons in America occurred in Iowa, where he stayed for a
few days in a Mormon cabin on the Iowa plains. Burton said it was the first clean
home, best food, and most civilized company he'd had since leaving New York. Perhaps
because of his admiration of the Arab world, Burton seems to have had a favorable attitude
towards the polygamous Mormon culture of his day. After leaving his Mormon friends
in Iowa, he seems quite deliberately to deride the filth and ignorance of the other
Americans he met on his trek west.
Arriving in Salt Lake City, his first task was to call on Brigham Young and other
Church leaders in the Lion House. He describes them as intelligent, well-spoken
men, quite unlike the fanatic mountebanks he'd been led to expect. And he was impressed
by the Mormon people he saw on the streets, and talked to. He also found them quite unlike
the superstitiously ignorant folk he'd expected.
He attended a meeting in the Tabernacle where he described the speakers as having
given intelligent, well-prepared and well-delivered talks, totally unlike anything
he'd been prepared for (though he comments somewhat unfavorably on the American dialect
and some of the faulty grammar used by a couple of speakers). He was especially impressed
by the Mormon method of sustaining church officials by common consent, saying it
was totally unlike any procedure he'd ever observed in any other religion.
A few days after arrival he attended a social function in the Social Hall (the foundations
of which have recently been excavated on the avenue facing the ZCMI Center on State
Street between South Temple and First South). He reported this to be the most sophisticated social event he'd observed since he'd last attended the Lord Mayor's
Ball in London. He added that the band played better than any he'd heard in New
York, and that the dress of those attending the ball was up to European capital city
standards. He printed a copy of the evening's menu in the book, showing that the types of
food offered were equally sophisticated.
After a couple of weeks in Salt Lake, Burton, who held the rank of Colonel in the
British Army and had letters of introduction, considered that he should not longer
delay presenting his compliments to Colonel Johnston the U.S. officer in charge of
Camp Lewis, founded after Johnston's march of semi-humiliation through the streets of Salt
Lake after having been compelled to negotiate a truce after a disastrous winter on
the plains east of Fort Bridger where he had been held for almost a year by the Mormon
irregulars in the hills. Burton noted that Brigham had clearly outmaneuvered and out-negotiated
the American Commander in Chief in Washington, as if he were himself "one of the
leading Powers of Europe". Indeed, Burton predicted that the Mormons were destined to become a Third Nation between the United States and California. (Of course
the Civil War assured that this was not to be the case.) He noted that the Camp
Lewis site was chosen because it was far enough from both Salt Lake City and Provo
that church leadership felt the troops would not bother the Mormon settlers, yet acceptable
to the U.S. government because it assured military oversight and control to the route
between the two main Mormon settlements of the time.
Having observed the Mormon leadership at first hand, and having spoken in person with
Brigham Young and heard him and his chief lieutenants preach in the Tabernacle, Colonel
Burton was surprised to find the officers of Camp Lewis as prejudiced and ignorant of the facts as the American politicians he'd spoken to in New York before embarking
on his trip. He decided that none of the officers had taken the trouble to visit
Salt Lake City or to speak to the President of the Mormon Church, considering this,
as an experienced military man, gross negligence on the part of any commanding officer.
And he forthrightly said so in his book.
After several months visiting Salt Lake City and the adjoining towns, Burton set off
for California by way of Tooele, the Salt Flats, Reno (then still known as Mormon
Station), and the passes of the Sierra Nevadas. He reported that as long as he was
in Mormon Territory (to the summit of the California Sierras) he was warmly welcomed and
well treated by Mormon settlers. But as Mormondom petered out in the California
mountains, he again began encountering the typical uneducated, ignorant, slovenly,
and ill-spoken Americans he held in such contempt.
Burton's interesting and well-written book was widely distributed at the time of its
publication. It had nothing but praise for Mormon leadership and society, and accomplishments
in taming the desert -- and for the Mormon way of life. It is astonishing that it seems to have had so little effect on the thinking of American Congressmen
and other policy makers, who continued in the thrall of anti-Mormon writers purveying
a brand of nonsense regarding the Church, its leaders, and its doctrines. That educated military officers of the U.S. government living so close to LDS Church Headquarters
could, as reported by Burton, hold contrary-to-fact beliefs, invented by enemies
of the Church primarily to keep Utah out of the Union -- which they succeeded in
doing for another thirty-three years following Burton's visit, simply shows predominance of
prejudice over man's willingness to exert a little effort to ascertain the truth
-- even when the truth is close at hand.
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